During the past two days, our bike trip has taken us through
sparsely populated Estonian countryside, first on the Baltic Sea islands of Saaremaa
and Muhu, and then crossing by ferry to the mainland. The whole country of
Estonia, in fact, is sparsely populated: 1.3 million inhabitants (almost
half of whom live in Tallinn) in a country of 17,400 square miles,
corresponding to 75 people per square mile (less than a tenth the population
density of Massachusetts). As a result, we have encountered very few
restaurants and bathrooms during our four days of cycling through Estonia. For
lunch, we have generally stopped at a food market and bought yogurt, fruit, and
candies, and then eaten while sitting on a bench or stone wall beside the
market. Our typical bathroom stop has been behind a tree on the side of the
road.
Tonight (Thursday), our accommodation is the magnificent Padise Manor
that was built in 1766 and has been beautifully renovated into an 8-room hotel and restaurant. It sits
immediately adjacent to an extraordinary 13th century monastery ruin. Perhaps
we'll hear the faint sighing of the reputed ghost of a woman from the 18th
century who lived in the manor.
Tomorrow we cycle to Tallinn, the endpoint of our 5-week
trip.
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Cycling past an old farmhouse |
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Once a functioning windmill, now a tourist attraction |
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Boarding the ferry back to the Estonian mainland |
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A church -- probably boarded up, since Estonia is the least religious country in the world |
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A pretty, and rare, roadside restaurant |
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A roadside stop |
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Approaching Padise Manor |
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Padise Manor |
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Our room in Padise Manor |
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Ruin of a 13th century monastery, beside the hotel |
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